Some time back I started working on a DRO scheme for my lathe cross slide. There's not a lot of room on top so many of the approaches I saw had one disadvantage or another. As a result I came up with a scheme to put the DRO underneath the lathe and used a "C" shaped piece to transfer the cross slide motion beneath the lathe. I had an iGaging DRO for the purpose because I bought two when I was working on my Z axis DRO setup, so I already had what I needed. Or so I thought. Unfortunately, the iGaging design uses a sliding contact with a fairly strong spring, which required a fair amount of force to overcome. DRO mounting schemes that put the mounting system inline with the sensor aren't affected by this, but my C shaped piece would deflect under the force enough to cause about a .005" error. I tried several ways to stiffen up the system but that was about the best I could manage. So I decided to modify my DRO to reduce the amount of force needed to move the rule through the sensor. This involved making a replacement base out of aluminum and replacing the sliding contact with bearings. I used aluminum because the rule MUST be connected to the sensor's internal ground in order to work correctly. My first iteration used flanged bearings because the rule needed to be constrained on two of its axes, but the flanges rubbed on the rule too much, which caused erratic variations in the force needed to slide the rule back and forth. So I replaced the flanged bearings with conventional ones -- but then had to add bearings to the bottom and top assemblies to constrain the rule on its vertical axis. At this point I debated on whether it really was worthwhile to continue my attempt to use an iGaging DRO, but since I already had a fair amount of time invested in this thing I forged on. This is known as the "sunk cost" syndrome, and I admit to falling victim to it. So after buying more bearings and spending more machining time on the base (and 3D printing a cover, also with bearing pockets) I got this: The top photo shows the scale, sensor, aluminum base and printed cover. The side bearings are 3x10mm and the top/bottom are 3x6. And here are photos of the mounting scheme: I used a "T" extrusion in an attempt to stiffen up my "C" assembly but it didn't improve things much. The 3D printed stuff was done with an older Ender 3 I bought from a friend. This is the first project I've used it for. The pieces were designed using openSCAD. Not shown: all the pieces that had something wrong with them :). The scale passes through a slot I milled in the vertical piece. At first the (re) assembled DRO had a terrible EMI problem. I added some shielding on the back of the sensor board, which helped a teensy bit. It turns out that the main problem was the spacing between the bottom of the sensor board and scale. I had used some 3mm brass washers to make sure the board didn't rub against the scale, but that turned out to be a mistake. I removed them and suddenly the noise problem disappeared. The board still isn't rubbing so that was a solution without a problem. I was sure that the DRO would misbehave once it was installed and the motor controller was turned on, but so far so good. I checked the DRO vs the dial and they are very close. That was a big unknown, since I wasn't sure if the spacing between the scale and sensor board would affect the readings. Lipstick on a pig? Well, probably. If I had known what I was going to encounter along the way I think I would have just bit the bullet and found myself a DRO that would work right out of the box....
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On 5/4/2024 4:30 PM, Mark Kimball via groups.io wrote: Some time back I started working on a DRO scheme for my lathe cross slide. There's not a lot of room on top so many of the approaches I saw had one disadvantage or another. As a result I came up with a scheme to put the DRO underneath the lathe and used a "C" shaped piece to transfer the cross slide motion beneath the lathe. I had an iGaging DRO for the purpose because I bought two when I was working on my Z axis DRO setup, so I already had what I needed. Or so I thought.
Unfortunately, the iGaging design uses a sliding contact with a fairly strong spring, which required a fair amount of force to overcome. DRO mounting schemes that put the mounting system inline with the sensor aren't affected by this, but my C shaped piece would deflect under the force enough to cause about a .005" error. I tried several ways to stiffen up the system but that was about the best I could manage.
So I decided to modify my DRO to reduce the amount of force needed to move the rule through the sensor. This involved making a replacement base out of aluminum and replacing the sliding contact with bearings. I used aluminum because the rule MUST be connected to the sensor's internal ground in order to work correctly.
My first iteration used flanged bearings because the rule needed to be constrained on two of its axes, but the flanges rubbed on the rule too much, which caused erratic variations in the force needed to slide the rule back and forth. So I replaced the flanged bearings with conventional ones -- but then had to add bearings to the bottom and top assemblies to constrain the rule on its vertical axis.
At this point I debated on whether it really was worthwhile to continue my attempt to use an iGaging DRO, but since I already had a fair amount of time invested in this thing I forged on. This is known as the "sunk cost" syndrome, and I admit to falling victim to it.
So after buying more bearings and spending more machining time on the base (and 3D printing a cover, also with bearing pockets) I got this:
The top photo shows the scale, sensor, aluminum base and printed cover. The side bearings are 3x10mm and the top/bottom are 3x6.
And here are photos of the mounting scheme:
I used a "T" extrusion in an attempt to stiffen up my "C" assembly but it didn't improve things much. The 3D printed stuff was done with an older Ender 3 I bought from a friend. This is the first project I've used it for. The pieces were designed using openSCAD. Not shown: all the pieces that had something wrong with them :).
The scale passes through a slot I milled in the vertical piece.
At first the (re) assembled DRO had a terrible EMI problem. I added some shielding on the back of the sensor board, which helped a teensy bit. It turns out that the main problem was the spacing between the bottom of the sensor board and scale. I had used some 3mm brass washers to make sure the board didn't rub against the scale, but that turned out to be a mistake. I removed them and suddenly the noise problem disappeared. The board still isn't rubbing so that was a solution without a problem. I was sure that the DRO would misbehave once it was installed and the motor controller was turned on, but so far so good.
I checked the DRO vs the dial and they are very close. That was a big unknown, since I wasn't sure if the spacing between the scale and sensor board would affect the readings.
Lipstick on a pig? Well, probably. If I had known what I was going to encounter along the way I think I would have just bit the bullet and found myself a DRO that would work right out of the box....
Attachments: Base cover sensor.JPG: https://groups.io/g/7x12MiniLathe/attachment/119497/0 Scale.JPG: https://groups.io/g/7x12MiniLathe/attachment/119497/1 Mounting assembly front.JPG: https://groups.io/g/7x12MiniLathe/attachment/119497/2 Mounting assembly rear view.JPG: https://groups.io/g/7x12MiniLathe/attachment/119497/3
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Very elegant solutions gentleman!
Ryan
On May 4, 2024 at 5:44 PM -0400, WAM <ajawam2@...>, wrote:
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That's how I did it:
https://www.ajawamnet.com/ajawam3/swarf/DSCN2848.JPG
https://www.ajawamnet.com/ajawam3/swarf/lathetopassylg.gif
On 5/4/2024 4:30 PM, Mark Kimball via groups.io wrote:
Some time back I started working on a DRO scheme for my lathe cross slide. There's not a lot of room on top so many of the approaches I saw had one disadvantage or another. As a result I came up with a scheme to put the DRO underneath the lathe and used a "C" shaped piece to transfer the cross slide motion beneath the lathe. I had an iGaging DRO for the purpose because I bought two when I was working on my Z axis DRO setup, so I already had what I needed. Or so I thought.
Unfortunately, the iGaging design uses a sliding contact with a fairly strong spring, which required a fair amount of force to overcome. DRO mounting schemes that put the mounting system inline with the sensor aren't affected by this, but my C shaped piece would deflect under the force enough to cause about a .005" error. I tried several ways to stiffen up the system but that was about the best I could manage.
So I decided to modify my DRO to reduce the amount of force needed to move the rule through the sensor. This involved making a replacement base out of aluminum and replacing the sliding contact with bearings. I used aluminum because the rule MUST be connected to the sensor's internal ground in order to work correctly.
My first iteration used flanged bearings because the rule needed to be constrained on two of its axes, but the flanges rubbed on the rule too much, which caused erratic variations in the force needed to slide the rule back and forth. So I replaced the flanged bearings with conventional ones -- but then had to add bearings to the bottom and top assemblies to constrain the rule on its vertical axis.
At this point I debated on whether it really was worthwhile to continue my attempt to use an iGaging DRO, but since I already had a fair amount of time invested in this thing I forged on. This is known as the "sunk cost" syndrome, and I admit to falling victim to it.
So after buying more bearings and spending more machining time on the base (and 3D printing a cover, also with bearing pockets) I got this:
The top photo shows the scale, sensor, aluminum base and printed cover. The side bearings are 3x10mm and the top/bottom are 3x6.
And here are photos of the mounting scheme:
I used a "T" extrusion in an attempt to stiffen up my "C" assembly but it didn't improve things much. The 3D printed stuff was done with an older Ender 3 I bought from a friend. This is the first project I've used it for. The pieces were designed using openSCAD. Not shown: all the pieces that had something wrong with them :).
The scale passes through a slot I milled in the vertical piece.
At first the (re) assembled DRO had a terrible EMI problem. I added some shielding on the back of the sensor board, which helped a teensy bit. It turns out that the main problem was the spacing between the bottom of the sensor board and scale. I had used some 3mm brass washers to make sure the board didn't rub against the scale, but that turned out to be a mistake. I removed them and suddenly the noise problem disappeared. The board still isn't rubbing so that was a solution without a problem. I was sure that the DRO would misbehave once it was installed and the motor controller was turned on, but so far so good.
I checked the DRO vs the dial and they are very close. That was a big unknown, since I wasn't sure if the spacing between the scale and sensor board would affect the readings.
Lipstick on a pig? Well, probably. If I had known what I was going to encounter along the way I think I would have just bit the bullet and found myself a DRO that would work right out of the box....
Attachments:
Base cover sensor.JPG: https://groups.io/g/7x12MiniLathe/attachment/119497/0
Scale.JPG: https://groups.io/g/7x12MiniLathe/attachment/119497/1
Mounting assembly front.JPG: https://groups.io/g/7x12MiniLathe/attachment/119497/2
Mounting assembly rear view.JPG: https://groups.io/g/7x12MiniLathe/attachment/119497/3
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On Sat, May 4, 2024 at 05:44 PM, WAM wrote:
toggle quoted message Show quoted text
Aha! I thought I had seen something similar but couldn't remember where. I like your swarf shield, that's something that still needs to be done. The portion behind my bracket is easy but the front part is a different story. I want something like a shield rather than a brush or felt pad since I went to a lot of trouble to reduce the friction as much as possible. What type/brand of DRO did you use? I'm assuming its frictional drag is low enough to not cause a problem like mine.
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Yea - I modified it so it has very little drag. It works well. I bought a mag DRO for it but I'm waiting to do the 16" bed mod to put it on.
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On 5/4/2024 8:26 PM, Mark Kimball via groups.io wrote: On Sat, May 4, 2024 at 05:44 PM, WAM wrote:
That's how I did it: https://www.ajawamnet.com/ajawam3/swarf/DSCN2848.JPG https://www.ajawamnet.com/ajawam3/swarf/lathetopassylg.gif toggle quoted message Show quoted text ( #quoted-237560421 ) Aha! I thought I had seen something similar but couldn't remember where.
I like your swarf shield, that's something that still needs to be done. The portion behind my bracket is easy but the front part is a different story. I want something like a shield rather than a brush or felt pad since I went to a lot of trouble to reduce the friction as much as possible.
What type/brand of DRO did you use? I'm assuming its frictional drag is low enough to not cause a problem like mine.
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Mark, I am in the process of using an iGaging DRO on one of my Unimats. I am also experiencing some issues with mounting the system in a neat fashion.
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I have the iGaging dros on my Clausing 8520.
One thing I learned in installing them is that only one end needs to be fixed, the other end can float. I installed a long DRO with both ends fixed and had erroneous errors. I Googling the problem I learned that I could let one end float relieving the tension that was causing the error.
Of course a "professional" installer freaks out when they hear this but they get paid to install them without the tension, fixed on both ends. I have one that has was installed ten years ago with a floating end and still working fine.
Ralph
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Mark, I am in the process of using an iGaging DRO on one of my Unimats. I am also experiencing some issues with mounting the system in a neat fashion.
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On Sat, May 25, 2024 at 11:00 AM, Ralph Hulslander wrote:
One thing I learned in installing them is that only one end needs to be fixed, the other end can float.
I took that approach on all but my latest install, the one that's the subject of this thread (for a grand total of 5 DROs, three on the mill and two on the lathe). I wasn't sure how it was going to work out but it appears to be OK. The main problem I have encountered with iGaging DROs is their EMI susceptibility. I have added additional bypass capacitors to all of mine. That's all it took for the ones on the lathe, maybe because the stainless steel scales don't develop contact problems. The DROs on my mill have the aluminum scales and they were a PITA when it came to EMI problems. The only thing that reliably worked was to hard-wire the scales to the sensor's internal ground node.
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Yes, it should be clear that you can’t mount the DRO at three locations and have them slide accurately unless you drill the mounting points with 0.0001 level precision. The “roller” was to be EXACLY parallel in both directions the what is moving and that is impossibly hard to do. The solution is two-point mouting. Fix one end of the rule and the slider. Let the other end of the rule float.
It’s not tension on the rule, it is that you can’t expect to mount the rule parallel to the motion.
I think people try to hard to make the mounting strong. You can use 3D-printed plastic and magnets. Magnetic mounts if well-designed work well, Everyone use then on their dial indicators.
Rare Earth magnets are now really inexpensive and you cn buy them on Amazon. These things are powerful enough to be dangerous if mishandled.
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On May 25, 2024, at 8:00 AM, Ralph Hulslander via groups.io <rhulslander@...> wrote:
I have the iGaging dros on my Clausing 8520.
One thing I learned in installing them is that only one end needs to be fixed, the other end can float. I installed a long DRO with both ends fixed and had erroneous errors. I Googling the problem I learned that I could let one end float relieving the tension that was causing the error.
Of course a "professional" installer freaks out when they hear this but they get paid to install them without the tension, fixed on both ends. I have one that has was installed ten years ago with a floating end and still working fine.
Ralph Mark, I am in the process of using an iGaging DRO on one of my Unimats. I am also experiencing some issues with mounting the system in a neat fashion.
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"I am in the process of using an iGaging DRO on one of my Unimats. I am also experiencing some issues with mounting the system in a neat fashion. "
Yes, these small lathes can be problematic in that regard. I just learned about yet another approach, described in the January-February 2024 edition of The Home Shop Machinist. I don't have the article itself, but it looks like the DRO extends off the back end of the cross slide. This means that you need enough room behind your lathe to accommodate the scale. The advantage is that it's pretty easy to include a cover to shield it from swarf. I built my bench with scrap lumber and it is NOT deep enough to work with this approach. As it is, it's pretty tight with the scheme I used.
Mark
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Or free, often with convenient mounting holes included. Computer hard drives offer some really nice ones; older server-grade ones can have phenomenally strong ones. Be very careful to not let them ’snap’ together; they’ll shatter into a million razor sharp shards.
A small selection of my collection (along with one of my late favorite pizza joint :-(
Rare Earth magnets are now really inexpensive and you cn buy them on Amazon. These things are powerful enough to be dangerous if mishandled.
-- Bruce Johnson
"Wherever you go, there you are." B. Banzai, PhD
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On Sat, May 25, 2024 at 01:14 PM, Bruce J wrote:
Bruce Johnson
Bruce Johnson I can use this kind of magnet
tey came from hard disk positionner very easy to recycling it also about you problem of changing motor the other post I use a moteor from a photocopier whit about 300 rpm output and I put a stepping motor on the input shaft like this the stepping are vert powefull and i control the speed esyly at all the rage also my next step are to use a pwerfull stepping from waching machine tahat the dreem jack 47 71
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One of the nice things about iGaging DROs , at least the ones I have, is you can cut them to any length required, they do not have to hang over the end unless you need the length to measure travel.
My DROs use TouchDRO which uses a processor with bluetooth. I have never had any problems with interference.
If the DRO is slightly off in mounting you will have tension (twist).
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On Sat, May 25, 2024 at 01:14 PM, Bruce J wrote:
Bruce Johnson
Bruce Johnson I can use this kind of magnet tey came from hard disk positionner
very easy to recycling it
also about you problem of changing motor the other post
I use a moteor from a photocopier whit about 300 rpm output and I put a stepping motor on the input shaft
like this the stepping are vert powefull and i control the speed esyly at all the rage
also
my next step are to use a pwerfull stepping from waching machine
tahat the dreem
jack 47 71
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Cow magnets are extremely strong too .
animal
On 5/25/24 10:41 AM, Chris Albertson
wrote:
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Yes, it should be clear that you can’t mount the DRO at three
locations and have them slide accurately unless you drill the
mounting points with 0.0001 level precision. The “roller” was to
be EXACLY parallel in both directions the what is moving and that
is impossibly hard to do. The solution is two-point mouting.
Fix one end of the rule and the slider. Let the other end of the
rule float.
It’s not tension on the rule, it is that you can’t expect to
mount the rule parallel to the motion.
I think people try to hard to make the mounting strong.
You can use 3D-printed plastic and magnets. Magnetic mounts
if well-designed work well, Everyone use then on their dial
indicators.
Rare Earth magnets are now really inexpensive and you cn
buy them on Amazon. These things are powerful enough to be
dangerous if mishandled.
I have the iGaging dros on my Clausing
8520.
One thing I learned in installing them is that
only one end needs to be fixed, the other end can
float.
I installed a long DRO with both ends fixed and
had erroneous errors. I Googling the problem I
learned that I could let one end float relieving the
tension
that was causing the error.
Of course a "professional" installer freaks out
when they hear this but they get paid to install
them without the tension, fixed on both ends.
I have one that has was installed ten years ago
with a floating end and still working fine.
Ralph
Mark,
I am in the process of using an iGaging DRO on one
of my Unimats. I am also experiencing some issues
with mounting the system in a neat fashion.
|
I usevcow magnets for test for 400 series stainless steel and picking steel items that drop hard to get places.
I have no idea where get cow magnets.
Dave
On Fri, Nov 8, 2024 at 10:39 AM, mike allen wrote:
переключити цитоване повідомлення
Показати цитований текст
Cow magnets are extremely strong too .
animal
On 5/25/24 10:41 AM, Chris Albertson wrote:
Yes, it should be clear that you can’t mount the DRO at three locations and have them slide accurately unless you drill the mounting points with 0.0001 level precision. The “roller” was to be EXACLY parallel in both directions the what is moving and that is impossibly hard to do. The solution is two-point mouting. Fix one end of the rule and the slider. Let the other end of the rule float.
It’s not tension on the rule, it is that you can’t expect to mount the rule parallel to the motion.
I think people try to hard to make the mounting strong. You can use 3D-printed plastic and magnets. Magnetic mounts if well-designed work well, Everyone use then on their dial indicators.
Rare Earth magnets are now really inexpensive and you cn buy them on Amazon. These things are powerful enough to be dangerous if mishandled.
I have the iGaging dros on my Clausing 8520.
One thing I learned in installing them is that only one end needs to be fixed, the other end can float.
I installed a long DRO with both ends fixed and had erroneous errors. I Googling the problem I learned that I could let one end float relieving the tension
that was causing the error.
Of course a "professional" installer freaks out when they hear this but they get paid to install them without the tension, fixed on both ends.
I have one that has was installed ten years ago with a floating end and still working fine.
Ralph
Mark, I am in the process of using an iGaging DRO on one of my Unimats. I am also experiencing some issues with mounting the system in a neat fashion.
|
Amazon for one place . I was surprised just how powerful they
were when I got the one I have .
animal
On 11/12/24 10:07 PM, davesmith1800
wrote:
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I usevcow magnets for test for 400 series stainless steel and
picking steel items that drop hard to get places.
I have no idea where get cow magnets.
Dave
On Fri, Nov 8, 2024 at 10:39 AM, mike allen wrote:
Cow magnets are extremely strong too .
animal
On 5/25/24 10:41 AM, Chris
Albertson wrote:
Yes,
it should be clear that you can’t mount the DRO at three
locations and have them slide accurately unless you drill
the mounting points with 0.0001 level precision. The
“roller” was to be EXACLY parallel in both directions the
what is moving and that is impossibly hard to do. The
solution is two-point mouting. Fix one end of the rule and
the slider. Let the other end of the rule float.
It’s not tension on the rule, it is that you can’t
expect to mount the rule parallel to the motion.
I think people try to hard to make the mounting
strong. You can use 3D-printed plastic and magnets.
Magnetic mounts if well-designed work well, Everyone
use then on their dial indicators.
Rare Earth magnets are now really inexpensive and you
cn buy them on Amazon. These things are powerful enough
to be dangerous if mishandled.
I have the iGaging dros on my
Clausing 8520.
One thing I learned in installing them is
that only one end needs to be fixed, the other
end can float.
I installed a long DRO with both ends fixed
and had erroneous errors. I Googling the
problem I learned that I could let one end
float relieving the tension
that was causing the error.
Of course a "professional" installer freaks
out when they hear this but they get paid to
install them without the tension, fixed on
both ends.
I have one that has was installed ten years
ago with a floating end and still working
fine.
Ralph
Mark,
I am in the process of using an iGaging DRO on
one of my Unimats. I am also experiencing some
issues with mounting the system in a neat
fashion.
|
cow magnet - Search
| | cow magnet - BingIntelligent search from Bing makes it easier to quickly find what you’re looking for and rewards you. |
|
|
This might help you.
Michael J. Maher M.A., R.Ph. 25923 Dundee Road Huntington Woods, MI 48070-1307 (248) 398-3868 [Home] (989) 823-2847 [Pharm] michael_maher48070@...
On Wednesday, November 13, 2024 at 02:10:36 AM EST, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:
Amazon for one place . I was surprised just how powerful they
were when I got the one I have .
animal
On 11/12/24 10:07 PM, davesmith1800
wrote:
I usevcow magnets for test for 400 series stainless steel and
picking steel items that drop hard to get places.
I have no idea where get cow magnets.
Dave
On Fri, Nov 8, 2024 at 10:39 AM, mike allen wrote:
переключити цитоване повідомлення
Показати цитований текст
Cow magnets are extremely strong too .
animal
On 5/25/24 10:41 AM, Chris
Albertson wrote:
Yes,
it should be clear that you can’t mount the DRO at three
locations and have them slide accurately unless you drill
the mounting points with 0.0001 level precision. The
“roller” was to be EXACLY parallel in both directions the
what is moving and that is impossibly hard to do. The
solution is two-point mouting. Fix one end of the rule and
the slider. Let the other end of the rule float.
It’s not tension on the rule, it is that you can’t
expect to mount the rule parallel to the motion.
I think people try to hard to make the mounting
strong. You can use 3D-printed plastic and magnets.
Magnetic mounts if well-designed work well, Everyone
use then on their dial indicators.
Rare Earth magnets are now really inexpensive and you
cn buy them on Amazon. These things are powerful enough
to be dangerous if mishandled.
I have the iGaging dros on my
Clausing 8520.
One thing I learned in installing them is
that only one end needs to be fixed, the other
end can float.
I installed a long DRO with both ends fixed
and had erroneous errors. I Googling the
problem I learned that I could let one end
float relieving the tension
that was causing the error.
Of course a "professional" installer freaks
out when they hear this but they get paid to
install them without the tension, fixed on
both ends.
I have one that has was installed ten years
ago with a floating end and still working
fine.
Ralph
Mark,
I am in the process of using an iGaging DRO on
one of my Unimats. I am also experiencing some
issues with mounting the system in a neat
fashion.
|
I got mine when was in high school and my father was putting a carport where farmer drop there milk off.
Thet just hand a few cow magnetic.
Dave
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