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Jandy iAqualink reliable Lights On logic

 

Hello,
 
I really dislike the Jandy iAqualink and its Toggle only commands. I have a client who wants a night time scene that turns on his pool and spa lights (and some TVs on and other house lights). Then we have a timer to turn off these things at like 2am.
 
Its all good except the damn Jandy lights dont always turn on or off. As best I cant tell there is no good way to make sure the light is on or off as the feedback can take some time to come in and its hard to count on that.
 
Also, if you want to adjust color of a Aux that has to be the last aux you modified before sending color 3 or whatever will work.
 
Anyone have a recommended sequence you have done that works for light control that isn't flaky or crossing fingers as it seems to be?
 
Thank you,
Jon
 

For this sort of thing where it’s an AC powered load, I would search Amazon for “current sensor switch”, which is a non-contact loop that you run the wire thru, that requires no direct connection to the AC line, and can sense current passing through a wire and closes some dry contacts of its own, to tell you about it. (The device itself steals its operating power inductively from the wire).

Hide them in the Jandy cabinet. 

Mike


On Tue, Nov 26, 2024 at 9:38 AM j5races via groups.io <fueler1=hotmail.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hello,
 
I really dislike the Jandy iAqualink and its Toggle only commands. I have a client who wants a night time scene that turns on his pool and spa lights (and some TVs on and other house lights). Then we have a timer to turn off these things at like 2am.
 
Its all good except the damn Jandy lights dont always turn on or off. As best I cant tell there is no good way to make sure the light is on or off as the feedback can take some time to come in and its hard to count on that.
 
Also, if you want to adjust color of a Aux that has to be the last aux you modified before sending color 3 or whatever will work.
 
Anyone have a recommended sequence you have done that works for light control that isn't flaky or crossing fingers as it seems to be?
 
Thank you,
Jon
 

You might also look at Shelly’s line of PM devices.  They can do power monitoring of both AC and DC loads.  There is a Crestron-Shelly driver on my GitHub

Hope this helps 

Jay

On Tue, Nov 26, 2024 at 1:16 PM Michael Caldwell-Waller via groups.io <bowser77=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:

For this sort of thing where it’s an AC powered load, I would search Amazon for “current sensor switch”, which is a non-contact loop that you run the wire thru, that requires no direct connection to the AC line, and can sense current passing through a wire and closes some dry contacts of its own, to tell you about it. (The device itself steals its operating power inductively from the wire).

Hide them in the Jandy cabinet. 

Mike


On Tue, Nov 26, 2024 at 9:38 AM j5races via groups.io <fueler1=hotmail.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hello,
 
I really dislike the Jandy iAqualink and its Toggle only commands. I have a client who wants a night time scene that turns on his pool and spa lights (and some TVs on and other house lights). Then we have a timer to turn off these things at like 2am.
 
Its all good except the damn Jandy lights dont always turn on or off. As best I cant tell there is no good way to make sure the light is on or off as the feedback can take some time to come in and its hard to count on that.
 
Also, if you want to adjust color of a Aux that has to be the last aux you modified before sending color 3 or whatever will work.
 
Anyone have a recommended sequence you have done that works for light control that isn't flaky or crossing fingers as it seems to be?
 
Thank you,
Jon

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