I’m restoring a Tek 130 LC and will need to replace the above. On one side the plastic piece (210-047) has broken which won’t be hard to replace with similar or a 3D print, but on the other the captive stop (105-009) has been lost and all parts replaced with nasty bodges.

My question is: before spending lots of time milling/printing custom parts, does anyone have either sources or recommendations?

Thank you.

Tek LC 130meters are unique and very useful, meant to check scopes input capacity, can zero out any lead or cables capacitance. Beware the tired lytic and paper capacitors and meter scale deterioration . Ours is mint with original manuals and test fixtures.

Did you check Tektronix manual for the mfg and part number?
Try the enormous McMaster-Carr cat for "panel fasterers"

Bon chance

Jon




Jon

Hello Jon,

Yes the numbers I quoted are from the manual.

Indeed the red of the meter scale is almost gone so I will need to search out a custom transfer option.

I don't see anything in MMc which would suit - it's not too hard to find Zeus-type 1/4-turn that will work when you wish to fasten one panel to another, but in this case, as you'll know, the fastener is 'on its own' and it is the plastic arm on the reverse that engages with the chassis.

These sound like the ones used in the 7000-series scopes to secure the panels; however, I think they're not exactly the same, correct?

Barry - N4BUQ

Hi again, will unearth my 130 LC, and compare the quarter turn twist lock to the ones on my 7000 MF scopes .

Am sure they are available, similar used in aviation, mil, etc.

Jon

Do a search on “Dzus fasteners” (yes, Dzus is the correct spelling). There
is a wide variety of them from various sources. I am not familiar with the
particular diameter and length of the ones that Tek uses/used. My
recollection is that they have a slotted screw head.

Steve H.

On Sun, Dec 29, 2024 at 03:56 Richard Kelly via groups.io <richardjkelly=
me.com@groups.io> wrote:

I’m restoring a Tek 130 LC and will need to replace the above. On one side
the plastic piece (210-047) has broken which won’t be hard to replace with
similar or a 3D print, but on the other the captive stop (105-009) has been
lost and all parts replaced with nasty bodges.

My question is: before spending lots of time milling/printing custom
parts, does anyone have either sources or recommendations?

Thank you.

They’re not in fact Dzus (yes sorry my incorrect prior spelling) - as those indeed rely on a fixed receptacle, whereas the ones on the 130 have ‘ears’ that when rotated slide being the edge of the capturing chassis edge. Thus there is no form of attachment or fixing on the chassis.