Thanks Jonas, I have seen them used but never realised the potential:-)

Thanks for clarification. There was an empty pad there so I wasn’t sure. 73 Reed

Per, Maybe the 50PA is breaking into a parasitic oscillation, pushing power back into QMX and destroying Q508. JZ KJ4A

sewald(at)arrl.org Use the "@" symbol

Yes, that must have been it. 20 W output is plenty and 4X of what the QMX delivers.

I have purchased many of his kits and enjoyed all of them . No one has ever responded to problems like Hans does. His detailed explanations on how the circuits work in his manuals are unparalleled. An

For an output power of 40 Watt, the input power was: 80 m - 0.4 Watt; 40 m - 1.2 Watt; 30 m - 1.5 Watt; 20 m - 2.2 Watt. The amplifier supply voltage is 24 V, the current consumption is about 3 A. The

Don't know why I didn't think of that, easy and cheap, Don! Nate N8BTR

I got a chance to play around with this today. First I replaced the Heath 2103 dummy load with my Bird 8201. (way better but 8x heavier) I put power to my DaiwaCN-801 so I could see peak power. (not s

Mr. Akhurst, Yes, I had the QCX-mini running off a battery, in practice mode, but just in case, had it connected to the QRP Labs Dummy Load (love that little thing). The PA was getting the PTT signal

Matt - In fact there is a really clean solution (no soldering iron inside the Kx1) that was staring me in the face as long as the K1 allows str key operation. Before I start I should mention a limitat

Hi Eduardo Sure, just add a note on the order form, during the checkout there's a text box where you can enter special requests. No problem! 73 Hans G0UPL http://qrp-labs.com https://www.buymeacoffee.

Hi All, I changed the LPS on the 50w Amp to 15m. The amp receives it signal from a HB QDX (9v build) running at 7.5v. This is my filter design: The following picture is of my measurements using the QD

Timo, You could fix the board issue by cleaning the shorts with an exact knife and some solvent. Be careful when soldering back L5, as it looks like the short was due to the solder bridging the gap. A

Well mouser.ca seems to have them under part number 512-FQPF2N60C. Can't check their other sites as it redirects to my county Canada.

Timo, If you need the part now, I would purchase the original part from either DigiKey or Mouser. Both have hundreds in stock. If a replacement is required in the future, then I would go to the new pa

timo.vandermerwe@... wrote: I had the same issue. Using a better USB cable helped.

Here is a link to a video I just uploaded to YouTube of my 50W Amplifier build for 40m https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ru9cReq-_x4

And the check is in the mail?

Some strategically-located heat-shrink or spaghetti tubing, or some insulating tape, which only exposes the very tip of the probe, can help to avoid those "OOPS" moments. A well-supported hand is also