Hello Group, I'm looking for help to change a Motorola CM300 antenna connector. I would appreciate knowing how to do it. Seems like it just unscrews, but not brave enough to trying it without knowing. Mick - W7CAT -- Untitled Document

I have several Deltas and Rangrs that I need to program to eventually use as link or node radios. They both use the X2212 that stores the frequencies. I seen in years past there were a few different devices that people have made up along with software. However most of the links online don’t work. The only 2 things I have found online is one made by KG4LNE and he has a GitHub with the schematic. But I have no idea what software that uses?? The second one I saw was built by NHRC. It’s called the PXP and it also has a GitHub that has the software and schematic and hex file to load into the pic microcontroller. I built the PXP from scratch and for the life of me can’t get it to read or write to the X2212…the software does recognize the pic controller to be correct. Not sure what I’m doing wrong. I rebuilt it 3 different times with the same result. Are there any other ways to program the x2212 that I’m not seeing? (I have the basic control head not the smart one)

Three of these radios no extras. I had more but those are already doing repeater duty and these are extra to my needs. $230.00 each or make an offer for all three. Brian

I'm looking for recommendations for a commercial transceiver to use for amateur data communications at VHF (144-146 MHz). Some APRS, VARA FM, and probably other data uses as well. Basically I'm looking for a 10W+ radio with flat audio input and flat audio output. If the radio also offers pre and de emphasis audio ports then so much the better. I've seen here several people offer praise for the Motorola CDM1250, which looks great to me because of the 20 pin accessory jack on the back, using a readily available connector housing and pins ( https://www.repeater-builder.com/motorola/cdm/cdm-acc-conn.html ). I see the CDM1250 on ebay for $100 to $125 (and more, of course). In reading the comments of others on this forum, trying to educate myself about this radio, it looks like if they are ever programmed for narrow band operation, that that's one-way street and there is no field programming that can restore them to standard (5 kHz deviation) bandwidth. So my questions to the cognoscenti of this group are: 1. If I buy a CDM1250 off ebay, I guess I only have the seller's assurance that the radio is still standard bandwidth. And if he doesn't know the bandwidth status, to stay away from it. Although, transmitting data tones at 2.5 kHz doesn't seem to be significantly worse than TXing with 3.3 kHz deviation. Any thoughts on that? 2. How do I get the Motorola CDM1250 programmed? Is this something I can do myself with common tools (like free SW from the internet and a USB to Serial UART TTL converter) or would I need to take this to a Motorola shop near me and pay for programming? Or is this radio model so old that most commercial shops are no longer going to have tools to program it? 3. Are there Kenwood or other radios that might also be a good match for use as a VHF data transceiver? I'd be grateful for any comments people here would care to offer. Paul Newland, ad7i Middletown NJ

Hi to All, I am familiar with RDAC for Motorola DMR Repeater but I was just told that Hytera has a version of RDAC for Hytera RD-982 DMR Repeater. Is this a April fool joke or this is true? If this is true any source for getting this Software? Thanks’ to all in advance. Best 73 Carl VA2CMB

What are your experiences and thoughts on new old stock duplexers? If a duplexer looks immaculate on the outside, but was manufactured 25 years ago, is it likely that there could be significant oxidation and corrosion inside the cavities even if the duplexer was never placed into service? Troy Troy Lousen N7KAM

As-if there is but ONE 'real' reason. ... as a page or two of the Repeater-Builder website appear in backdrop ... Not that many YouTubers bother to do any production background work, sourcing, validation... provide references. Thought: Vendors of different on-air technologies have done more than enough to segregate ('divide'? 'isolate') user communities, so each vendor immediately contributes to their own declining market share. More for the 'consumer' to choose from, and by making a choice, by that contributes to the issues. Brief nod to the circumstances of fewer/diminishing skilled resources. We're trying to get newcomers, anyone, to engage in learning what and how repeater systems are properly designed, built, implemented and maintained. The likes of Bridgecom and their system kits - absent any/all the critical nuances beyond the RF jack on the radio... not helping. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0z6dvWxyCh0

Hey guys. HOpe everyone is doing well. Alright, trying to figure this out and its driving me crazy. I'll give you the repeater setup. I've got a quantar on VHF, and its hooked up to an allstar node. The allstar node is the controller as well. I'm running it in test mode over here. Transmit side is on a dummy load, and the receive side just has a small antenna to keep it on the air. The pi is in a metal case, and my gut tells me this may be the problem, or at least part of it. I have the cable going from the 50 pin connector on the quantar that Scott at repeater builder made, and that goes in to a rim lite. My problem is when I key up, I hear what sounds like a 1KHZ tone and it is driving me totally nuts. I can even record a file if you guys want so you'll hear what its doing. That's probably a somewhat vague description, but here we are. My audio can get through when I talk, but you hear it in the background, and it needs to disappear. I tried moving the cables around and it didn't go away. Anyone else seen this problem? I'm trying to pin it down. Any thoughts? Any suggestions on what to do would be awesome. Cheers, Jed

Got some interesting behavior from a Kenwood TKR850. After powering up, and transmitting one time (local mic or via controller), the unit continues to transmit. Even though the red PTT LED is off, there is still RF output. I have left it for 15 minutes into a dummy load, and there is no change. Using a freq counter, the unit transmits just a smidge off freq during the time it should be idle. When under a normal transmit, the freq counter is correct. Anybody ran into this unique issue before?

I have a DR-2X with HRI 200 directly connected. With wiresx room enabled. I want to create a YSF reflector for it. So users can connect with hotspots or even apps like droidstar. I believe I was mistaken on what a YSF reflector does. I thought it was connected to wiresx & then the created reflector goes off the wiresx room or node as an alternate way to connect. But now I'm thinking..maybe a YSF reflector must need some rf connection to your wiresx room? Is that correct or am I mistaken? If so this project may have to wait till later on. When i add a RC210 controller to the repeater. So i can add link radios for things. I bought a raspberry pi4. Loaded raspberry pi bullseye onto it. Followed the setups on qso365 for creating a ysf reflector. All this is new to me. Ive never messed with raspberry pi much. Still trying to understand port forwarding or if I set that up right too. Also can this all be done on the same internet connection? The DR-2X, HRI 200 & raspberry pi4 all on three same network. Or is it best to run the reflector on a different internet connection. I only ask because some of the information online can seem conflicting & confusing. I try to ask for help with this in pistar groups. But they never approve my post there. So I'm left to what information I can scrounge around the web. Most of it looks several years old too.

So have a couple of these cat controllers. The 700 model and the 200 model. and although programming these on the air is SO much fun😩 I would rather do this per pc control. but there is something called the CI200 which apparently is a interface between the controller and the pc. But CAT went out business and I have NEVER seen one of these devices. Is there a way to build something to accomplish the same task to use the pc or just suck it up and program over the air.

Just to follow up on this with everyone, I determined the fault was in the Station Control Module. After swapping with another MTR, the problem went away. Looks like this SCM will have life in a satellite receiver going forward. Anyway - there ya go. Chris/AJM -- Chris Baldwin, CETSr. (KF6AJM) Trustee - MetroNET Cal. Intertie (KB3PX)

Hello to All, I friend wants to source audio from a TK-8180, DB-25, pin 17-AFO and 18-GND for a broadcastify feed. The diagram says this output is DC coupled. The feed is going to a computer soundboard input. Any suggestions? I was thinking of 600:600 transformer coupling. Thanks for any input. Joe, K1ike

---------- Original Message ---------- From: JOHN HASERICK <jhaserick84@...> To: Jon Cunningham <jcunham@...> Date: 12/29/2024 1:00 PM EST Subject: Re: wacom 2 meter cans Jon, Because the RX and RX frequencies on 2 M are so close , probably the same. I made a mistake- correction is that from the TX connector, best SWR, RL and closest to zero reactance should be on the TX, not RX frequency, and visa versa. John On 12/29/2024 12:54 PM EST Jon Cunningham <jcunham@...> wrote: Both jumpers to the T the same length? On Dec 29, 2024, at 12:24 PM, JOHN HASERICK <jhaserick84@...> wrote: Hi Jon, A ham club I belong to had a Wacom duplexer for 6 meters that had one of the in between can jumpers removed and an improper length one substituted. The result was a double notch that could not be joined by any combination of tuning the notch tubes. The proper coax length between cans, and between can antenna port and center of antenna port T, is an electrical 1/4 wavelength. You get it approximated by multiplying 1/4 wavelength by the velocity factor of the coax which is 0.66 for RG224 or 0.69 for RG 400 or RG142. Only use these types coax which are double shielded with silver plated copper braid shield. Start with the jumper between each 2 can pair. When the coax is the correct length there will be just one notch dip and the notch depth will be the deepest. Then do the can to T coax. The best check there is with a return loss bridge (or antenna bridge) connected to say the TX can antenna port coax connector, 50 ohm resistive toad to the antenna T antenna port, and the coax jumper connected from antenna T receive port to RX cans with 50 ohm load to the RX side duplexer RX port. If the RL dip or best SWR occurs below the duplexer RX frequency, the coax jumper is too long. If above, the coax jumper between antenna T and RX cans is too short. Then do the same with bridge on RX port coax jumper connector, and 50 ohm load moved from RX side to TX side TX port, still with 50 ohm on the T antenna port.. John On 12/29/2024 8:20 AM EST Jon Cunningham <jcunham@...> wrote: Wonder if you can help with our dilemma. We bought the cans new back in the 1980's and were using two antnnas....since then we switched to one antenna and the old T connection and cables have been lost. I made a set about 9 inches long and they work but youm can hear the white noise in the signal....how do I calculate the corrext length for these? I assume we would need to retune with the new cables to make things rightt Jon- K1TP 145.130 in Gloucester, MA thanks in advance