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I just completed my QMX+ and made a simple 20m dipole that gets 1.6:1 swr. If I plug in earbuds to the unit and tune to FT8 I can hear the sounds, same for Morse code. But when I connect it to wsjt-x, CAT works and PTT works fine but I am not receiving anything. If I look in the audio settings or pulseaudio I see the input and output but even when I am listening on the earbuds nothing shows on the PC input.
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Computer not connecting to newly built QDX
3
I just finished building a version 5 QDX unit. The build went very well and I'm sure there are no poor solder connections as I checked every connection with a VOM after doing the soldering. All were good. This is a high band version and the third QDX kit I've built. The first two work fine. The problem I'm seeing is when I connect to the computer port I get a message that something is wrong with the USB device and Windows will not recognize it. It does appear the unit is working otherwise as the red LED blinks rapidly at power on and then stays lit. I'm unable to load any firmware until I get the USB port to recognize the QDX. I wired this unit up for 12 volts and used the RWTST method to wind the Binocular core. I'm sure someone else has had this issue so what has been found to be the cause(s) and fixes for this problem? Gary A. - W0MNA
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Good afternoon, While continuing to put my new QMX+ through its testing phase, I saw something in the diagnostic that raises a red flag that I was hoping someone can shed some light on it. On most bands, when I hit 'T' to test my power output, I my voltage under transmit highlights red as if it's out of range. The voltage readout is ~9.6-9.8v. Could someone help me shed some light on what it is supposed to be and how I might fix it? Current battery voltage is showing 11.8v (11.6v under load). Picture attached for reference. Thanks, Bob, KD9YUY
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I am an old OM, almost 80 years old, with many constructions in the past: a receiver with reaction and tubes in 1959, since many Heathkit, a QDX Hi-band, a Four State QRP Group Bayou Jumper and a Kanga Rooster more recently without forgetting my Hermes Lite 2. My HL2 has become my main transceiver, used mainly in JS8 mode, a little in CW and also in SSB with Thetis, which allows it to radiate the equivalent of 10 Watt (with a PA of 5.5W) thanks to Pure Signal and CESSB mode (gain of 1.8 in power). I was interested in the QCX+ then the QMX and more recently the QMX+ and I followed their development with attention but what would they bring more than my HL2? I want to experiment with QRP and slow modes (in JS8 I managed 15,000km QSOs with 5W and an EFHW antenna). So I thought about the Ultimate3S family that would allow me to conduct all kinds of experiments. What do you think of a station including: - the Deluxe 6-band U3S set (bands 40-30-20-17-15-10 because 80M does not interest me); - 5 additional BPFs and the Ultimate relay-switched kit if it can work with the receiver; - the polyphase kit (to power my CrowPi-L, a PC using a Raspberry Pi4B-8Gbit as a motherboard); - the TCXO and additional 25mm spacers. After a first reading of the abundant documentation it seems to me that all this is possible except perhaps the use of the switched-relay kit with five additional BPFs with the receiver, to have a six-band transceiver, can someone confirm or deny this? Or can the receiver work without a BPF in which case it would be all-band? 73 - Pierre - FK8IH
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New QMX+ on the air
2
Hello, Happy to listen my first CQ CQ :) I wanna say thank you to all of you, even if Hans documentation is awesome, your support helps me alot. I believe now, it's time to work on the reglementation part of the licence... 73's F1061SWL
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Hello. I'm new to the group and to QRP Labs. I'm awaiting my QMX 5 and I need some advice for powering it. What do any of you suggest as a reliable, steady voltage supply? I read the voltage should not exceed 12 volts. However, many power sources exceed 12v. Any suggestions? Thanks, Tom, N8EUI
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4 months
3
On Christmas eve it will be 4 months since the last QMX software update. Hey Hans, is Santa on his way? Tony
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Hans, please consider labeling the "Select" and "Exit" buttons on the enclosures of the QMX
3
Hans, you make mention of the “Select” and “Exit” buttons throughout the manuals. It would be really helpful if you labeled them on the enclosure. Please consider it. Thanks, Joy N6GO
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QMX No PC sound
24
Hello! I am so pleased that I received my assembled QMX Transceiver before Christmas. Waited for 3 months but it worth it. But I'm afraid I do something wrong. I connected it to my computer with Fldigi and I get the waterfall. It's receiving, I can change the frequency, I can get the messages. But there is no sound coming from the PC so I can't hear anything. I only get audio output if I connect my headphones to the transceiver itself. Isn't it supposed the audio is coming out from my computer? I have enabled port audio, both capture and playback are set to QMX and audio device shared set to my computer soundcard and checked the box to enable it. I have also tried all possible combinations, also tried WSJTX and JS8Call, both PC and Mac I have also later installed the driver even though it was not needed. The best I can achieve is a working transceiver that can receive and transmit (which by all means is wonderful), but I hear no sound whatsoever coming from the computer. The computer plays Youtube, so nothing is wrong it it. I get all sound notifications too. I mention that my transceiver is assembled by QRP Labs, case included, so I have all the confidence that the device was thoroughly tested before shipping. Any information is highly appreciated! Thank you! YO8UFO
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Here is what I use for a solder pot. It was in its heyday a hot soldering iron tip with a hole in it and a rubber bulb for suction. I removed the rubber suction bulb and put a screw in that end to plug it. I then removed the soldering tip with a suction hole in it, set it up on my small vice and put some solder in the open end and when I plug it in I have a miniature soldering pot to burn off the coating of magnet wire. I don’t use it often because my surgical scalpels and Knipex scraper work well for me but occasionally I get it out and it does the job nicely. Ham radio is not a hobby or a sport. It’s an attitude. Dave K8WPE
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Cap values measure low
6
I am building another QCX, this time a 20M Mini. I routinely measure whatever I can before soldering them in. The five "474" capacitors c11, C43-46 all measure low, one 396 nF which is 15% low. Should I worry? These are used in the quadrature sampling detector circuit. Shouldn't they be better matched, maybe to within 5%? Rgrds, Howard n3fel.
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First of, yes I’m sure this topic has been covered a thousand times, but I can’t find it and I’m stuck…. I finished my QMX Rev1 and need to install firmware. I’m not the least bit computer oriented and could probably be classified as useless on a computer. At 68y/o, it doesn’t take much! I plugged my QMX into my PC via the USB and powered up my 12v version with 11 volts. The screen was dark and I could see folder F and then I worked my magic and…..well, here I am begging for help. I should have stopped there! Now when I plug my QMX into my power supply and connect the USB, I get a lit LCD that’s blank and I can’t find “F” in the files. Anyone have any suggestions? For me, the build was the easy part and this was the part I was dreading! Please keep in mind my lack of knowledge around computers and don’t worry about insulting my smarts. Thanks, Brent
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Knipex tool
19
This is a great tool. Unfortunately, as far as I can see, the smallest blade size they make for this tool is 0.5mm which equates to 24 AWG. YMMV, 73's Joe K8FC
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Low output on factory built QMX+
6
I received my new QMX+ recently with full testing paperwork. Have other projects that kept me from doing more than receiving and going through the different parameters of each feature until today. Today I put an RF power meter on the output with appropriate dummy load and find no power output on all bands. Checked my setup with my QMX and there is good power out on all bands from my QMX, 5 watts. The factory check sheet showed at least 3 watts on all bands before shipping. Looking at the circuit board I see minimal to no solder on some of output transistors. I am printing the build manual to learn how to remove the bottom of the case so I can see if they are soldered on well from the bottom. The main eight screws on the top and bottom do not allow the bottom of the case to come off. There must be other screws to allow that but they are not obvious. Other screws on the front look like they are holding the screen in place. It is NOT in the practice mode. I have it set up to show rf power out and VSWR on the front, but is shows no output there also. Battery indicator on the screen works. I even turned off the over/under voltage safety and SWR safety features but no change. It is in the CW mode, straight key. Power is controlled by my DROK power controller at 11.9 v and this arrangement worked for my small QMX and two of my other QRP rigs. On my 12 volt power supply setting it does draw 100 ma more on transmit but no output is indicated on the rf output meter. Any ideas? I want to add some solder and heat to the power transistors but will await looking at the bottom of the pc board and others advice. I will check to see if it is putting out any signal when I get some time tonight or tomorrow. Thanks for your time and input. Be the REASON someone smiles today. Dave K8WPE
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Hello I've finished my QMX build and am going through the diagnostic screens before getting it on air. Some of my screens are fairly similar to the screen shots in the Operating manual, but some are not. Because this is all new to me, I'm not sure how close they need to be, or what is "bad". For example, my "Test ADC I/Q" screen is probably the most different from the sample in the manual (see attached). Should I see a clear sign-wave like the manual shows? The manual also warns you not to jump to premature conclusions based on this screen. But not knowing how close my other screenshots should be, I'm not sure if I have an issue or not. Any advice is appreciated. I can provide screenshots of other diagnostics if that is helpful. Thanks in advance. Dale Mine: Operating Manual:
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Why twist wire
11
Why twist the wire in RWTST? What purpose does it serve? -- 73 Karl KI4ZUQ
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QMX Power drain when 'Off'
15
I've noticed that my QMX shows a power drain when off, about 70 to 80 mA. VDD is 2.25V. I got into this state by connecting to power. Initially power zero until I press the power button, then it goes to about 160mA (I'm using a 7.6V power supply). On a long press I see the shut down message and the LCD goes dark. Some voltages: V_IN: 7.66V Q103 and Q105 Gates are 6.8V Q103 Source, Drain and Q105 Source all 7.6V Q105 Drain 4.12V VDD is 2.25V PWM_3V3 is 1.25V, maybe this PWM is still running. PWR_HOLD is 0V PWR_ON is 6.45V Has anyone else noticed this? FTAOD I'm using the official SMPS boards. I recently fixed my 5V one by replacing the 5.6V Zener. Chris
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Here is the photo of the board with the minimal solder on the rf output transistors. Sorry for the omission. Be the REASON someone smiles today. Dave K8WPE
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QMX+ no output but received fine
7
Stan, et al, Thanks so much everyone. I soldered each toroid, transformer, etc. as recommended by Stan and others BUT ONLY ONE AT A TIME and retested after each re soldering step. When I got to T501 it looked like all the wires were soldered OK on the bottom but on the top there was little solder evident and when I tried to re solder each wire it was very evident that the builder (at QRP Lab) hadn't removed much of the coating from the wires. It took a longer time to heat each wire and I added a little more solder from the top until I could see that solder was adhering to the wires top AND bottom. Now when re testing I have power out, over 5 watts. Thank you so much and thanks to Hans for the excellent diagrams of the circuitry that I spent a lot of time last night. I went over each part until I found every part recommended that I check, learned where it was and what it connected to. My next step was to follow voltages but I thought I would do l less harm by just rechecking the soldering first. Thanks again to everyone. It is working and now to put it back together, put Kapton tape on the bottom half of the case (lots of little mountains of solder that QRP Labs had clipped off but I have the tape and it is a precaution for me with metal cases. Dave K8WPE Virus-free.www.avg.com
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NO RF OUTPUT
2
IF YOU FIND YOU HAVE NO RF OUTPUT ON ALL BANDS OR MAYBE JUST ONE OR TWO, THE MOST LIGHTLY CAUSES ARE BAD SOLDERING JOINTS, GET SOME AMTECH FLUX PUT IT ON ALL OF YOUR JOINTS AND RESOLDER WITH HOT IRON, THE JOINTS SHOULD BE NICE AND SHINY. I HAD THIS ISSUE WHEN I FIRST BUILT QMX +,
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