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Like many of us here, I have made a few accessories for my mini-lathe and my micro-mill - stops, carriage clamps, indicator holders, things like that. I don't think I have ever copied an existing design, mostly because I don't have easy access to the large blocks of steel or aluminum that those designs often need. So, I figure out a design based on the raw materials that I have on-hand. In figuring out a design, I almost always make up a proof-of-concept model made out of wood. I don't have a huge scrap bin of steel, brass, and aluminum, but I do have plenty of hardwood, Baltic Birch plywood, and lots of woodworking tools. With the wood model, I figure out approximate dimensions, where to put holes and fasteners, will the accessory interfere with features of the lathe, etc. I'm not afraid to re-make wood parts that aren't quite right. Eventually, when I have the design worked out, I'll make a metal version. But in some cases, the wood model has been good enough for my needs. I used a wooden spindle crank for a number of years, and I still use a couple of wooden indicator holders (which have embedded rare earth magnets). I am the only one doing this?
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Has anyone had one of the LMS 2" dial indicators apart? I got a used one for just a few dollars and it needs a little fixing. The needle is bent, but I can't get the front bezel off. Mike
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7x16 Lathe Ways Indicator Holder?
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Looking for one - clamp OK but magnetic better. Any recommendations on a unit to buy vs build?
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Tailstock nut
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Not sure if this applies to the smaller lathes , but here it is just in case . A pretty clever fix . https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/inconsistent-tailstock-clamping-surface-thickness.109027/page-2 animal
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LMS 5000 Bed Extension kit - Carriage Adjustment
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I worked on the bed extension project again today. Taking it a bit slow on this project. No problem with adjusting out the carriage play. I'm wondering just how "freely" the carriage should move? I currently have it adjusted so there's no play in the vertical plane, but a little play when I rotate the carriage clockwise and counter clockwise. If I lift one end of the bed, the carriage will slide down the ways. Too loose? Thanks for any help. Stan
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Hi All, After putting it off for way too long; I'm finally getting around to upgrading my HF 93212 mini lathe with the LMS 5000 16" bed extension. I have the lathe torn down. Decided to play it safe and put the parts/screws in ziploc bags and label the bags with a sharpie so I won't forget what they are. Also checked off each step in the instructions as I disassembled the lathe. Any tips/advice before I start Reassembly? I did slip the carriage on out of curiosity to see how it fit. The front is fairly snug, but there's a noticeable amount of play in the rear. Stan
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Moving my "new" Grizzly G1006
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Someone sent me this excellent article on how to disassemble and move one of these mills. (The rest of the stiff in hood website is interesting too). https://rick.sparber.org/Articles/MoveMill/MoveMill.htm This guy moved his mill twice and explains in detail how to take it apart. He even weighed the individual parts, which was very comforting. Despite being well into geezerhood, I work out pretty regularly and I think I'll be able to pick up all the parts on this list. Also I have a come along and know how to use them. That's what he used to lift off the head and that sounds quite practical if I can find an overhead beam at the seller's factory. I have one question for you guys though. This mill is missing the left hand crank handle for the X-axis leadscrew. (Possibly removed at some point to fit a motor, which was sold to someone else at some point). Do I actually need one? Mini-mills have never had more than one crank and I don't really understand the reason why big mills have two unless moving the table during some operations requires an enormous amount of force. So should I keep my eyes open for another crank handle or does it matter? Mike Taglieri
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I picked up an old Mitutoyo magnetic indicator stand on ebay for a great price. Has a bit of very light corrosion that I think I can address pretty easily and even if I can't, it's still very functional as is. The one big issue was it wouldn't turn off completely. I have it partially apart. I think that issue was the limit screw needed adjustment. Aligning the magnet manually makes it work perfectly fine. So far so good. The last issue is the inside is full of heavy, sticky old grease. i have the knob removed and the insides are gunked up - I think someone squirted a bunch through the hole on top where the rod attaches, probably decades ago. I'm at the point where I was going to pull the magnet out so I can clean it off, clean the bore and lightly lube it before putting it back together. But when digging around trying to figure out how to get it apart, I found a lot of threads on machinist forums suggesting that pulling the magnet out would demagnetize it. Right now, it works pretty well when it's "on" other than the issues above, so I don't want to kill it. I"ve had newer indicator stands apart and pulled the magnets out with no issue, but magnets have come a long way. This is one of those older indicators where the knob is held in with a pressed ring, rather than the square plate with two screws under the label. I'm guessing early 70s but maybe older. The threads I read never really said if they just pulled the magnet out for a few minutes and then it was dead, or they left it out for a few days sitting on a metal table or something. You guys ever heard of or experienced this? I could clean it all out with solvent with the magnet still in there, but then I risk getting solvent all over the paint (it does soften slightly when wiped with acetone) and I probably won't get all the old grease out that way.
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LMS service
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Hi folks. I have to express my feelings: After 10 years, nearly everyday in use, my LMS 5200 lathe motor had to be replaced. Still running, however , noisy. I order a new one from USA. Without details:Things happened that shall not happen. A call to LMS, they had a 4 minutes intern meeting, and I got new parts very quickly and they kindly favored me. Great thanks to LMS. /johannes Mexico
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Monday night I was looking at the latest Home Shop Machinist and saw a cover story about someone making new dials for his Jet mill-drill so theyd look more like Bridgeport dials. (This involved designing a machine to engrave the new dials, designing another machine to resharpen carbide engraving tools to needle sharp points, etc. People in HSM often go overboard in cover articles, perhaps to get to be cover articles). I paid little attention to the modification story, but I was intrigued by the mill-drill itself. I have a Harbor Freight mini-mill (the one with the tiltable column) that I bought in 2017. It's given me good service and I love using it for drilling, but its low power and small capacity have sometimes been a trial. For example, when I was restoring my South Bend shaper, I had to make a new gib for the shaper ram out of phosphor bronze. The SB gib is a foot long, and that's the exact length of the table on the mini-mill. So milling the edges of the gib was a mess and cutting oil grooves in it was even worse. I had to keep unclamping the work and moving it on the table, because a one-foot table gives you much less then a foot of table TRAVEL, and a table as long as the work means you can't clamp it on both ends at the same time. The thing that saved me on that shaper gib job was that it works fine and will never be seen by human eyes until after I'm dead. But if that had been practically anything else, I would've has to scrap the part (probably several times), in metal that cost $100/square foot. Also, even on the lower speed setting, this mini-mill doesn’t have much power. But the mill-drill in that story had twice as long a table and more capacity in every area, plus a 2 HP motor. (With real American horses, not Chinese horses). So I looked on ebay to see what they sell for and discovered that the Grizzly equivalent is for sale right across the river in Brooklyn right now, for a used price similar to what I paid for my mini-mill in 2017. https://www.ebay.com/itm/404906221587?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=e0cbjckhsoi&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=-_UhiONhSvy&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY What do people think of this? I know there's criticism of round-columned mill-drills because the head can move from side to side when changing height but I could figure out ways around that, and I'd much rather have that problem than to try to make something more rigid or more powerful then it was designed to be. I was originally hesitant about the weight of the thing since I lived by myself and drive a VW GTI. But it looks like it can break down into pieces, and I could make several trips. I'm sick with a cold, so I'm not visiting the seller immediately, but probably will later this week. Mike Taglieri
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AR Warner HSS Inserts
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Has anyone had direct experience with AR Warner HSS inserts? Dick
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Using time delay and thermal overload Will save a motor This is a thermal over load set at 200°F or 93°C. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08NTXJBV3?starsLeft=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_apan_dp_CKZXS6DMD18C2C2MCQBB Time delay gives a over load for starting to 10 time rate ampage for very short time. Dave
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Often a lot of swarf ends up on the floor in front of the lathe. In an effect to limit this I made some front shielding and widened the ways rubber cover. Other members may have such arrangements or better. Time will tell of its efficacy and if modifications or additions are needed. And if inconvenience is excessive. Short tapers can be cut with the shields in place. The lower shield does not limit carriage travel and in the vertical plane is very close to the factory chuck shield. Cutting tools can reach the chuck center before the shield can touch the chuck body. It is attached to the factory protractor which was removed when I set back the compound mounting point many years ago. The upper shield has a cutout for mounting tool holders. All tool holders (save the scissors knurler) can be attached to the tool post – even the large Diamond-brand diamond tool – the closest fit is the part tool holder. The image show an indexable tool (diamond-shape insert) in the QCTP – the shield touches the chuck guard with the tool tip 5/32” from the chuck’s inside jaws. The large Diamond-brand tool touches the jaws with ¼” to spare. The upper shield is attached to the QCTP with double-sided tape. If I decide all is good and any mods made and I like the arrangement, I will see about drilling and tapping the QCTP for a proper attachment. -- Lone Tree, Colorado USA
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There is a bizard gear in the hubs of a bycile that is lounging to the screw of a Worm Gear is easy to make the 'Worm Gear' which would go with this screw I could take a picture of the screw in question if it can help THANKS Jack 47 71
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FINAL REPORT ON TEACHING A LATHE COURSE, IN THAMES NEW ZEALAND
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FINAL REPORT ON TEACHING A LATHE COURSE, IN THAMES NEW ZEALAND I am writing this report to help anyone else who may want to run a similar course for a community group like Men's Shed. Well, we had our last course today. We had originally planned three separate workshop groups, each lasting 2 hours on 2 or 3 days. Surprisingly it worked out that we could cover sufficient material to do it in shorter time. We had 10 students, The first 3 were our guinea pigs and we ran two classes of 2 hours. Then the next batch ended up being 7 students in a single class for 3 hours. We cancelled extra classes we had planned. Although, this is for the "Men's Shed" it has become very popular with women as well, and 6 of the 10 students were women. None of the students had any lathe experience and only a couple had used a wood lathe, but they were all highly motivated and enthusiastic to learn. So this was a very satisfying experience for the two teachers. I am not a professional engineer, but my partner, Peter Woodford was a fitter and turner originally from Dorset and trained by the British Military. Twenty years of his career was in production engineering with the New Zealand company Fisher and Paykel, making home appliances such as washing machines and dishwashers etc. He had to do quite a lot of work on the old donated Myford lathe to make it useable before we could run the course. We had two 3-jaw chucks with significant problems with runout. By switch back plates and jaws he was able to reduce runout to 0.007". The Chinese Alloris style quick change tool post was rounded on its mounting surface and he had to mill off 0.3mm to make it flat! We only have 2 tool holders to fit standard cutting tools. We had to change tools in the tool holders and re-adjust the center height each time, but that added to the learning experience. It all worked out perfectly in the end. The room is small but Peter set up a 42" closed circuit TV with a camera mounted high up near the foot of the lathe and a light high over the head. This meant that students standing around could either watch directly, or watch the TV screen. With the second group being bigger we changed the structure of the course as follows. We started the class at the lathe pointing out the basic components, the importance of the axis through the spindle and tailstock and the parts of the saddle with movement along the bed being parallel to this axis, and the cross slide being perfectly at right angle to the axis. Demonstrated how the various knobs provide movements in these directions. Talked about backlash and how to compensate for it. Then inserted a piece of stock in the 3-jaw chuck and turned the motor on at a good speed to point out what might happen if clothing or hair were caught in the chuck. I then used the 42" TV for a brief presentation of safety rules and gave them a handout of the list including the important ones like NEVER leaving the key in the chuck, and rules about using a file or emery paper. Peter suggested avoiding emery cloth because it is so strong. Instead use strips of emery paper which tears easily and of course never wrapping stuff around your fingers. It also included instruction for startup and shutdown including cleaning the machine and oiling all exposed metal surfaces. Another handout included a list of useful links to YouTube channels including my own, Quinn Dunkie's BlondiHacks and Joe Pie's. Then we went to the tea room where we could all sit down for more theoretical discussions. We had a huge spread of lathe parts, tools, and accessories, There was also a show-and-tell section of things we had made. A small bronze bell was a favourite, bronze balls, bronze coins weighing exactly one Troy ounce (31.1 grams compared with the cooking ounce of 28 grams), a dodecahedron, ball turner, jigs, Hero's steam engine with parts made from stainless steel, brass, or spun copper, and a model gold mining stamper battery were on display. This section started by taking the jaws out of a large 3-jaw chuck so that they could see the internal mechanism with a scroll, and de
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https://trav-a-dial.com/product/newgen-trav-a-dial/ Dave
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So did ya make the whole flange ? Any pic's ? Is Phil Wood still out there making hubs & bottom brackets ? They were too expensive for me back then animal On 3/26/24 8:58 AM, paul mcclintic via groups.io wrote:
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I may have mentioned this before, but I have a serious moisture/humidity issue here in WV. Similar issue as further South, except we tend to have cooler temperatures, especially at night so the tools are often still below the due point when the moisture increases during the day. It's a particular problem in my garage/shop which is uninsulated. I've solved this with my small precision tools by keeping them oiled and keeping them in gasket-sealed plastic containers with some dessicant packs. I thought I had solved this on my bench tools by coating them with Ballistol - only to find that it doesn't seem to hold up all that well over time. I went over to the lathe that I had coated heavily in Ballistol in January only to find rust patches on the ways. Came off easily enough with some fine scotchbrite, but I'd like to find something better. Thinking of trying Birchwood Casey Barricade, which is supposedly better than Ballistol and also made for firearms. Just wondering if anyone has a better solution. Wondering if just plain motor oil would be adequate.
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possible worm gear & some bike talk
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Back in the day if yer bike came with Mafac brakes it also came with a little tool set maybe the size of a pack of regular cigs . That little tool kit & Crescent wrench were the only tools some bikes ever saw during their lifetime after getting bucked in the bike shop . A lot has changed in the bike world since I left it . thanks animal On 3/25/24 5:17 PM, Chris Albertson wrote:
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Закрито
linux off topic
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I remember somebody speak about linux here I have a new touwer to remont in linux sombody can tel me which one is the best today I work on red hat 10 y ago but it is in server mode not in window type mode lile today help me please jack 47 71
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